VARANASI
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP

Varanasi, also known as Banaras or Kashi, stands as one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities, bearing immense cultural and religious significance in India. Here are some insights to anticipate during your visit:

Spiritual Atmosphere:
Varanasi holds prominence as a significant spiritual and religious center for Hindus, situated along the sacred banks of the Ganges River. The ghats (steps leading to the river) are revered, drawing pilgrims who believe that bathing in the Ganges cleanses them of sins.

Ghats:
The ghats of Varanasi are iconic and integral to the city's identity, numbering around 80 along the Ganges, each with its unique significance. Particularly renowned is the Dashashwamedh Ghat, hosting the mesmerising Ganga Aarti ceremony every evening.

Ganga Aarti:
Witnessing the Ganga Aarti is an enchanting experience. Priests perform rituals with fire, incense, and lamps, creating a captivating spectacle attracting both tourists and locals. The Dashashwamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat are popular venues for this ceremony.

Temples:
Varanasi boasts numerous temples, with the Kashi Vishwanath Temple standing as one of the most sacred Shiva temples and a major pilgrimage site. Other noteworthy temples include Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, Durga Temple, and Tulsi Manas Temple.

Boat Rides on the Ganges:
Embarking on a boat ride along the Ganges River is a must-do activity, offering a unique perspective of the ghats and the city. We will hire a boat during sunrise and sunset for a truly magical experience and unique viewing of the old city.

Narrow Alleys and Bazaars:
Varanasi's old city is a labyrinth of narrow alleys, offering an adventurous exploration. The bustling bazaars present a variety of goods, from silk and spices to jewelry and religious items.

Cultural and Musical Performances:
Varanasi's rich cultural heritage often features classical music and dance performances at various venues, showcasing the city as a center for Indian classical music.

Cremation Ghats:
Varanasi is renowned for its cremation ghats, particularly the Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat. Witnessing Hindu cremation rituals is a profound and solemn experience, reflecting the cycle of life and death in Hinduism.

Cultural and Religious Festivals:
Depending on the timing of your visit, you may encounter vibrant festivals such as Diwali, Holi, and Dev Deepawali, celebrated with great enthusiasm in Varanasi.

While Varanasi may present an intense and chaotic atmosphere, it remains a place of deep spiritual and cultural significance. It's recommended to approach exploration with respect for local customs and traditions in this ancient city.

Ensuring health is crucial, and it's essential to be mindful of potential challenges in Varanasi. Carry personal medication to address any health issues that may arise, considering the prevalence of conditions colloquially known as "Delhi belly." Personally, I find it indispensable to have at least a hand sanitizer ready wherever I go.

Varanasi's air quality can be a concern due to factors such as diesel generators, traffic, and the smoke from burning ghats. Airborne particles can potentially irritate your throat and lungs. Thankfully, monitoring air quality online is easily achievable, allowing for adjustments as needed. It's advisable to bring a few face masks to mitigate exposure.

To stay on the side of caution, opt for bottled water and refrain from consuming ice with your drinks. While the popular local drink, lassi (a milk or yogurt-based beverage), is widely available throughout the city, its quality can vary, so it's wise to exercise discretion.

We advise you not to pet or play with any animals (dogs, cats, cows, buffalos or monkeys) during the duration of the workshop.

Please bring comfortable shoes. We are very likely to walk up to 10km or 6 miles each day. The vast majority of ghats are paved.

The old city is a maze of narrow streets. Even thou the majority of surfaces are paved please be aware of where you're walking, as well as your surroundings. Even the narrowest alleys will have motorcycle and bike traffic as well as small and large animals.

Varanasi locals are very friendly and a lot of people speak English so feel free to interact and ask questions. Speaking a few words or phrases will go a long way and help build trust. If you're offered a tour of the shop or a boat ride and don't feel like taking it decline it firmly but politely. If they feel like they might get you to buy something they will carry on nagging.

During portrait workshops, me and the guide will be approaching holy men or babas for photos. If you see anyone you would like to photograph please let me know and the guide will ask permission for photos. Each person we photograph will be paid a fee. This is normally around 500 Indian rupees, but could be more depending on the time we spend with the person. This fee is included in the price of your trip so don't feel like you need to give any money out. There always will be Babas that try to get money out of you so don't be intimidated by this. Our guide has been working with photographers for many years and will handle this.

There are two large burning ghats in Varanasi. We will be photographing in various locations along the river and will be passing those several times each day. Please feel free to respectfully watch the proceeding, but stay away from taking photos. Those are real funerals with family members mourning. Funerals can happen within hours of a person's passing so families experience a lot of stress and pain. Respect this! If you are approached by a person promising he'll take you close to the burning pile to take photos ignore them. They'll pocket the money and put you in a position where you really don't want to be.

We will visit markets during our stay. Feel free to negotiate prices. Aiming for 50% of the asked price is good. Frankly, you'll still overpay compared to locals but won't be ripped off and sellers will still be happy.

Be mindful of sacred places. Maintain a quiet and respectful demeanour in places of worship. Keep noise levels to a minimum, and avoid disrupting ceremonies or prayers. Photography might be tolerated in one temple but won't be allowed in the next. If you see people taking shoes off before entering a temple you will also be required to do so. Dress modestly and avoid public displays of attention.

Leave some space for the unexpected. Varanasi is full of surprises. Some of my favourite memories are those moments of being lost in a maze of old streets. Always finding something new and exciting to photograph.

Holi is a popular and significant festival also known as the festival of colour. It celebrates the eternal and divine love of the deities Radha and Krishna. Additionally, the day signifies the triumph of good over evil, as it commemorates the victory of Vishnu as Narasimha over Hiranyakashipu.

Please bring a change of clothes and pair of old shoes that you don't mind to be completely covered in colourful pigments and dyes. You likely won't be able to clean it. On the bright side, it's one cool souvenir!

Average day temperatures of 25C to 32C. With just 6mm of rain throughout the month, Varanasi will be warm and humid. Be prepared for this, bring a sun block, sunglasses and a head cover.

We will be staying in a 3 or 4-star hotel in Varanasi short distance from the ghats. Prices are based on two person sharing. If you wish to have your own room speak to us and this will be booked for you (Fees apply).

If the hotel if further away from the ghats cost of taxi to and from the hotel on shooting days will be covered.

There is no public transport along the ghats and the river. During workshop hours, you will spend most of the time on your feet. Morning and evening workshops will each take 2-3 hours and could easily cover up to 10km of walking at a leisurely pace in a single day. Walking along the ghats will require walking up and down short sections of stairs as we commute to shooting locations. There are numerous resting places, benches, or cafes to rest during the day if needed.